After the summer, when fields and leaves begin to change colour and the holiday period is over, people in Le Marche start preparing for the cooler season. This time of year comes with unique delicacies. Three things come immediately to mind: castagne (chestnuts), cantucci biscuits, and vino cotto.
In this article you will learn what vino cotto is, explore its ancient origins and modern times, understand how it is stored and used, and see how it remains part of local tradition.
What is Vino Cotto
Vino cotto means “cooked wine”. It is a wine made from local grapes whose mosto (grape-must) is placed in a large copper pot called a caldaro (in dialect, callà). The mosto is obtained by pressing the grapes. Once in the callà, it gets gently heated, usually over wood fire, until it reduces to about one-third of its original volume.
This concentration deepens the flavour, darkens the colour to an amber hue, and increases its sweetness and intensity. From there the liquid is transferred into barrels and aged. The result is a tasty aromatic wine, often served in small glasses at the end of a meal or with dessert.
Origins and Modern Times
The history of vino cotto in Le Marche is very old. According to local documentation, the drink dates back to the era of the Piceni people. They lived in what is now the Ascoli Piceno and Macerata area, long before the Roman Empire. Later, Roman authors described similar cooked-must beverages. (Wikipedia)
Some texts suggest that Roman patricians and emperors consumed wines “reduced by fire” at banquets.
Over centuries the technique passed from farm families to small producers. In Le Marche, especially in the area of Macerata and surrounding areas of Fermo and Ascoli Piceno, the tradition remained strong.
In modern times the drink is still an important piece of Cultura Marchigiana. While once almost entirely for home consumption, a few small wineries now market aged versions, and festivals celebrate the tradition each autumn.
Storage and Shelf Life
The cooking process gives the must the ability to age well. After reduction, the hot liquid is transferred into used oak barrels or small casks (often ones previously used for earlier vintages). Older vino cotto can be blended with new production to maintain its flavour.
Some producers age the wine for five years or more, achieving fine amber tones and complex aromas.
Because of the boiling process that helps reduce microbial activity, the wine is stable and can remain drinkable for many years, unlike typical table wines from traditional rural production.
In farmhouses, it was common for a family to produce a small barrel each year, store it away, and open it only for special occasions. Today collectors value older production years, sometimes offered at higher prices.
Traditional Use
Vino cotto is typically enjoyed in autumn and spring, often after a hearty meal. It pairs beautifully with cantucci, castagne arrostite, or strong aged cheeses. In Le Marche it is a fixture at castagnate (chestnut-festivals) and even at Christmas and New Year gatherings.
In many families the end of the olive harvest or grape harvest would be celebrated with a small glass of vino cotto. Older residents still recall the saucepan of must bubbling in a copper caldaro in the early hours of dawn, while neighbours shared stories and children listened.
Some local dishes also incorporate vino cotto: desserts like biscuits or mostaccioli, or sauces for rich pastas and meats. Historically it was also used medicinally, as it was believed to have beneficial effects after long days in the fields. Each farmhouse had its own recipe, calendar and ritual around vino cotto.
The Vino Cotto Legacy
Vino cotto is a traditional recipe, that connects ancient Italian inhabitants (Piceni, Romans, Medieval farmers) to contemporary people. When we think of vino cotto, our mind immediately goes to cozy home vibes, and convivial memories with friends and family.
Key Takeaways
- Vino cotto is a cooked wine from Le Marche, made by boiling grape must in copper cauldrons until reduced.
- Its roots trace back to the Piceni people and ancient Roman times, documented by later sources.
- The cooking and aging allow for long shelf-life and deep flavour, making it suitable for desserts, strong cheese or simple sharing.
- It remains central in rural traditions, especially in autumn, at chestnut-festivals and family gatherings.